Fashion Journalism in the Digital Age: Jian DeLeon
*One of the most influential voices in the fashion world today, Jian DeLeon has worked at media outlets such as Complex and Highsnobiety before taking on his current role as the men’s fashion and editorial director at Nordstrom*
An avid consumer of lifestyle and fashion journalism myself, I came across Jian and his work early in my teens. I always admired his ability to articulate the labyrinth of modern-day fashion culture and as a young Pinoy kid reading Jian’s articles from my bedroom in Makati. It was inspiring to see a fellow Pinoy holding a position so influential in the scene.
Despite my evident Pinoy bias it is safe to say that Jian’s impact has not gone unnoticed. During his time as the editorial director of Highsnobiety, he helped elevate the multi-media brand to attain the global stature it now holds. Safe to say Jian is a walking encyclopedia able to unpack and bridge the various facets of modern streetwear culture apparent through his extensive editorial works.
I was lucky enough to speak to him on topics regarding his career, Filipino culture, and the state of journalism in the digital age.
(Jian)
Was journalism always a passion that you wanted to pursue?
I can’t say I ever loved writing as much as I absolutely hated math. I read a lot of books and consumed a ton of media as a kid, and still do. Journalism was a way for me to channel my natural curiosity and combine it with a knack for storytelling. In fact, as a writer, I definitely fall in the camp of creatives who hate the process but don’t mind the result of it. What got me into lifestyle journalism was when I realized it existed. I hung out at Tower Records and flipped through very niche publications like Mass Appeal, No Depression, old Vice, i_D, and The Fader. Of course somewhere along the line, I discovered Complex, and sometimes read GQ and Esquire. But it was definitely niche print that got me into it more than the mainstream publications. People who influenced me along the way were Mary HK Choi, whose work at Complex, her defunct magazine MISSBHV, and an article she wrote for The Awl titled “All Dudes Learned How to Dress and It Sucks” certainly inspired a lightbulb moment in me. And then there’s the late, great Gary Warnett, whose Gwarizm blog remains a treasure trove of information and a reminder that things are actually much closer than they appear, reference-wise.
What purpose or force drives you to create your work?
I come from a service mindset. How am I being of service to the subject, the brand, and the narrative? Am I doing it justice and doing right by all parties? I know it’s impossible to always tell the full story, but I believe in telling real stories. Part of that comes from having an empathetic understanding of the perspectives that need to be honored and amplified.
What does your writing process look like i.e. deciding on topics, researching/ interviewing then articulating your thoughts into an article?
It starts with something I’m interested in then tracing a thread backwards. I’m very interested in the genealogy of brands or designers. Everyone’s influenced by something, and you learn along the way that there are a lot of creative people who are championing some version of a canon that was ahead of its time. Whether it was an artist or author that remains widely under-appreciated, it fascinates me how people still connect over knowing the same seemingly niche things. Early on in my career I noticed how there was a very formulaic type of lifestyle journalism where it was about art history references or tying modern culture into this dominant western hegemony, it was deemed high brow if you could compare Rick Owens to Egon Schiele or MF DOOM to E. E. Cummings. I wanted to do the opposite, and ground my work in alternative cultural touchpoints that felt more valid to me.
(Left to Right: Photos of Jian with Joe Freshgoods, Colm Dillane a.k.a. KidSuper, Dapper Dan and HoYeon Jung)
What impact has Philippine culture had on your upbringing?
For me, it’s always been about recognizing the power in doing what I do and being who I am. I’m of the generation where representation was stumbling upon guys like DJ Qbert, Willy Santos, Chad Hugo, and the Basco brothers. I’m still excited to meet Filipinos in fashion. I was super excited when Supreme made a guayabera shirt that resembled a Barong Tagalog, and this new era where plenty of Filipinos and Asian-Americans are really stepping into our own power. The company I’m currently working for is based in Seattle, which of course has a rich history in regards to Asian-Americans and Filipino-Americans, so it inspired me to revisit the works of Carlos Bulosan. I’m always thinking of ways to help push these kinds of narratives forward.
How would you describe Philippine culture's influence on popular culture and your own personal taste?
Wearing heritage on my sleeve used to be more explicit. In college it was shopping on slides like Black Lava or Digital Gravel and getting cheeky Filipino-oriented shirts saying things like “Pinoywear” on it, or tracking down a pair of Manny Pacquiao Trainer SCs or Zoom Huaraches. But now it’s evolved to being obsessed with Kenneth Cobonpue’s furniture and Philippine brands like Fortune WWD are doing great things and manufacturing in the same factories as labels like Homme Plisse. One of the grail items I’m waiting on is a custom Bode Senior Cord Jacket that I literally had a dream about. It’s built around a theme of Filipino snacks like Skyflakes, Boy Bawang, Chocnut, Philippine Brand dried mangos, and other stuff I grew up with. It’s become a more natural synthesis where you feel like you’re more firmly between both worlds.
What does it mean to be Filipino to you and do you ever feel like your work is a manifestation of you giving back to your culture?
Being Filipino to me is unique because we’re inherently a global people. I feel like many of us are early adopters by nature, and also have the opportunity to discover the bleeding edge of every culture whether it’s through relatives abroad or experiencing it firsthand.
(Jian for Aimé Leon Dore)
With social media being deemed the “fashion capital” of the world, how have you seen fashion journalism evolve over the course of your career?
I’m more interested in how Instagram has become the new blog. I love what Sabukaru has built online, and how people like Samutaro have built a following off of combining substance, nostalgia, and well-curated visual narratives. I think it’s amazing what Hidden NY has become, where the merchandise is sort of the NPR tote bag for a new set of sub rosa followers. I’m excited to see where it all goes, especially as the whole metaverse conversation is entering a new stratosphere. I wouldn’t count out people connecting over physical products vicariously experienced online just yet.
How do you balance personal bias when writing about work done by those whom you know personally?
Well fortunately I was never a critic. But I do try to stay objective.
What is your perspective on fashion influencers given they might not have the credibility of fashion historians but have influence on a larger scale? Do you think this is detrimental to the fashion world?
I hate the word influencer. I think everyone has the capacity to be influential. Even if it’s just putting your friends onto some brand or product that’s a better version of whatever they’re into now.
During your podcast episode with StyleZietgist you mentioned how at times you would write articles that catered to search engine optimization i.e. writing about Kanye West and Supreme. Do you ever feel pressured to have to appeal to consumers and do you often find yourself writing more commercial content over topics that might interest you more?
Something I say a lot about what I do is “tricking kids into eating their vegetables.” You might not have to work hard to sell junk food, but it takes finesse to make broccoli and kale palatable. There’s always a balancing act between giving people what they think they want and what you know they need.
Looking towards the future, how will you define success in your field?
For me it’s always about the next project and making sure I’m still having fun.
(Jian’s custom made BODE jacket that features illustrations of iconic Filipino snacks)
Keep up with Jian through his Instagram, @jiandeleon.